Ristorante San Marco, Canelli

When we checked in at Villa Pattono, the receptionist gave us a list of local restaurants. There are two Michelin 1-star restaurants in the area.

One day we decided to try Ristornate San Marco, located in Canelli, for lunch. The lady chef Mariuccia received the star more than 10 years ago.

The restaurant is housed in a humble-looking building in a residential area. Its decoration is traditional and intimate. Our waiter was very professional, showing much enthusiasm in what he does, and being attentive without overbearing.

The villa as we mentioned earlier (see previous post here) only serves breakfast. So every day, we had to drive out to find lunch and dinner. There are pros and cons to this situation. The pros is that one gets to truly sample the local cuisine. The cons is that after a few days, the searching, driving and parking twice a day became a bit of a chore, especially when we tried to go to a different place every time.

Canelli is in the heart of the wine region of Monferrato, an area between Alba and Asti. It is approximately 20 minutes drive on windy country roads. Given the aging GPS in the car, the search for restaurants in the country side became an adventure by itself. It was fun until we got lost, hungry, and embarrassingly late on arrival.

We were just on time for Ristorante San Marco.

Instead of ordering from the Degustation menu, which would have been too much food, we ordered à la carte.

Calamaro saltato con crema di carciofi nostrani e riduzione di Balsamico (Squid sauteed with artichoke cream and balsamic reduction)

Tajarin funghi porcini (Homemade egg pasta with porcini mushroom ragout) – Tajarin is a local specialty – spaghetti-like but made with eggs – a bit like Chinese egg noodel

 

Ravioli di ricciola, pomodoro fresco, vongole veraci (yellowtail fish ravioli, fresh tomatoes, clams)

 

Scamone di agnello da latte in lenta cottura, albicocche, fagiolini con speck croccante (slow-cooked rump of milk lamb, apricots, green beans crunchy speck)

 

Tiramisu

 

Hazel nut is a major product of the area – Nutella was created in neraby Alba.  Every thing on this plate is made with the nut !

 

The husband of the chef is the president of the truffle searchers (trifolau) and Mariuccia asked if we are interested to join a search when the fungus is in season (about a month away). She brought in a big basket of freshly picked porcini.

Mariuccia makes her own sun-dried tomatoes.

We had a nice long lunch and would love to come back to try her new truffle menu when they are in season.

More hazel nuts and petit-fours to conclude a slow, long lunch.

 

Villa Pattono, Constigliole d’Asti

Our late summer vacation was spent mostly at this villa situated in the middle of the Piemonte (Piedmont) countryside of Italy. Rather than moving from one place to another several times during the week (like we did in France in June), we stayed here for a good five days.

The approach from the automatic gate up to the main building, with a small covered shed for parking on the left, and a pool and vines on the right, was very welcoming.

We went in early September and the grapes were still on the vines.

This is the back of the villa. The property was totally surrounded by vines.

The villa is located at one of the higher points in this area which has gentle rolling hills. The only higher point nearby is the church at Annuziata, which is five minutes away.

The manageress’s tiny silver and lipstick red fiat. Very Italian.

From our balcony, we were afforded a nice view – almost 270 degrees – and sunset.

We could see the distant Alps on a clear day.

Comfy common area.

Our room is on the small side but it is adequate.

The main attraction for me is the pool. There was hardly anyone there.

At dusk, they pipe in light jazz to liven it up.

The villa has a spa on the lower level, just a wet and a dry sauna and a small whirlpool. However, the fancy programmable shower did not work.

The property is owned by a famous winery in Barolo – Renato Ratti. The villa’s web site is here. There are 13 rooms in total.

There is a tasting room on the lower level where one can buy their wines.

The villa is perfect for relaxing, super quiet,  hardly anyone around during the day. The only catch is that they only serve breakfast. That means we had to drive out every day in search of lunch and dinner. More about that in later posts.

Random photos #96 – #100

These are the photos I (Chris) took and posted on Facebook. The series was started in March of 2013. There is no theme – just something random and visually interesting. We gave each a title and noted where it was taken (to the extent we could remember the city).

 

random photo #96 – face2face — in Vevey.

 

random photo #97 – untitled – Lausanne

 

random photo #98 – 5E — in Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

 

random photo #99 – stuffy chair

 

random photo #100 – food fight — in Vevey.

 

If you are interested to see other Random Photos, click on the random tag on the left.

Domaine des Bidaudieres, Vouvray

If you have been following our trip to the Val de Loire, and our story about finding the chateau we booked (click here to read), this is the second place where we ended up. Because we cannot extend our unplanned stay at Chateau des Arpentis (click here to see it), the owner, Sylvie offered us a room at her other property in Vouvray,

Domaine des Bidaudieres is a restored 19th century property located on a terrace of a vineyard. The 15-hectare is no longer producing wine. The web site has many more pictures.

We liked the spaciousness of the entrance hall. When we arrived, a couple of potted small lemon trees with ripe fruits perfumed the glass-enclosed space making it very inviting and relaxing.

Sylvie told us that this property is very popular for weddings and are booked every weekend in the summer. We can see that the entrance hall is really good for a reception or dining area.

The property has a swimming pool on a lower terrace and an interesting stone staircase.

A photogenic spot for weddings.

There is an orangery next to the pool which can also be used as a residence with a glass-roofed sitting area.

This is one of my favorite spot. I(Chris) can imagine having a nice dinner al fresco … watching sunset from the terrace at dusk and then later with candles on the chandelier suspended from the tree …

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We did not have time to explore the grounds of the property.

The rooms, each named after one of the Vouvray vineyards, have a view over the pond and the grounds of the estate on one side and over the swimming pool terrace and the surrounding countryside on the other.

Our window has a view of the pond. The water was so clear that we could see the vegetation on the bottom from where we stood on the second floor.

Sylvie lives here with her family in a separate area.

Breakfast room

Common room

Vouvray is located along the Loire on the east of Tours. It is very well known for still and sparkling white wine made with the Chenin Blanc grape.

Sylvie recommended checking out the cave of Domaine Marc Bredif. We did not have time to tour the cave but bought several bottles to take home and a magnum of the sparkling variety for VC’s birthday party. It was a really good drink for the summer.

Another place to come back to next summer.

Farewell – Bon Voyage and Solari Boards

This post is dedicated to a friend, JL who departed recently.

A while back, we did a post on Louis Vuitton and the use of Solari di Udine board to sell luggage in its NY flagship store.

We mused then:

I bet these boards must have appeared in dozens of movies to help depict the sorrow of separation or the anticipation of loved ones’ arrival.  Like a towering travel deity, making destinations appear and disappear, announcing delays and last calls, it literally spells out the fates of travellers standing beneath it.  As if to counter the traveller’s anxiety or boredom, it makes a strangely soothing, mesmerizing “tsktsk” sounds as the tiny tiles flip in tandem to form its message.

We thought Solari boards are becoming a thing of the past. It might be true for airports but these boards are alive and well in Swiss train stations.

At Lausanne. “Nous vous souhaitons un agreable voyage.”

At Bern. Tiles in motion. “tsktsk”

At Geneva airport rail station.

And at Zurich airport rail station.

See our earlier LV – Solari di Udine post here.

Farewell and Bon Voyage.

Musée des Blindés, Saumur

Continuing with our visit of Saumur … on the theme of military transportation, from live horses to their modern mechanical replacements …

After touring the National Riding School (Ecole nationale d’Equitation), we quickly drove over to the Musée des Blindés (Armoured Vehicle Museum). Unfortunately, it was late in the afternoon and the museum was closing. So we looked around the museum shop and I resorted to taking pictures of the tanks that were parked outside.

Saumur was the traditional training center for the French cavalry for over a century (hence, the National Riding School). It now holds the current Armoured Cavalry Branch Training School which is entirely dedicated to train armor specialists.

See our post here on the National Riding School.

The Musée des Blindés has its early origins in a study collection for the school. It is still a French state institution funded by the Army.

The museum was also named after General Jean Baptiste Eugène Estienne, the creator of the French tank arm.

The Musée des Blindés has the world’s largest collection of armoured fighting vehicles and contains well over 880 vehicles (not limited to tanks), although the British Bovington Tank Museum has a larger number of tanks.

Because of shortage of space, less than a quarter can be exhibited.

Over 200 of the vehicles are fully functional, and obviously the ones shown here are not likely in working condition.

Surprisingly, the rust on many of these tanks make them look more real than those that are newer and look like toy models. Compared above and below.

Didn’t know the United Nations have tanks.

Apparently there are 11 sections in the museum starting from early pieces used in World War I and up to ones that were captured during the Gulf war. One could probably spend a whole day inside.

The museum’s official web site is here.

It is a bit disturbing to see so many war machines and destructive power on display.

La Cadre Noir de Saumur

Back to posting on the stuff we did in June in the Val de Loire …

The French National Riding School (Ecole nationale d’Equitation) founded in 1972 is located in Saumur. Take a look at their very helpful official website here. Much of the information here came from this site.

We had a 2+ hour-guided tour (the only way visitors are allowed to see the place) led by a very knowledgeable English speaking guide. She is an university student majoring in tourism and working during her holidays.

The National Riding School is founded on the knowledge and experience of the ecuyers (Riding Masters) of the Cadre Noir with a mission to develop horse training, to teach riding for sport, and to teach the equestrian professions.

All the teachers of the National Riding School are members of the Cadre Noir. The principal purpose of the ecuyers, many of them military officers, each one a real expert in their own discipline, is to pass on their technical and theoretical knowledge.

They also have to train and keep in condition the horses presented in the Reprise de Manège (Musical Ride), and those who perform the airs above the ground, as well as representing the school in national and international competitions.

They are also entrusted with the preparation of the horses used in the training of their pupils. The school receives the French teams in the four Olympic disciplines: Dressage, Eventing, Jumping, and Paralympic. The school has many close ties with the École de cavalerie (Armoured Cavalry Branch Training School).

The Grand Manège is used for lessons, international competitions, training, and Cadre Noir rehearsals and galas. With 1500 seats, it is one of the largest indoor arenas in Europe.  The mirrors positioned across the total width allow the ecuyers to observe the way of going and movements of their horses and to correct aids and posture.

The National Riding School can accommodate around 500 horses in 4 perfectly equipped stables.

Half way through the tour of the stables, Sue was allergic to something in the air and had to go back to the car.

About 60 grooms look after the 330 horses belonging to the school on a daily basis.

Heat lamps after shower.

They are aided by a number of automated systems: distribution of water and feed, and getting rid of the poop. The flaked and cubed feeds drop into the mangers 3 to 4 times a day at set times.

The feed requirements of each horse depend on his weight, his age, the breed, the outside temperature, but above all his level of work.

The bedding produces up to 600 tonnes of manure each year, some of which goes to local mushroom growers.  This piece of information is alarming since we just went to a local mushroom grower and museum (see our posts here and here). Now we know where some of the black bits on white button mushrooms come from !

The tour was fun because it allowed us some close-up moments with the horses. We had ample time to explore the stables and touch the horses.

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Our next post continues with the theme of “horses” and their role in war …

Random photos #101 – #105

These are the photos I (Chris) took and posted on Facebook. The series was started in March of 2013. There is no theme – just something random and visually interesting. We gave each a title and noted where it was taken (to the extent we could remember the city).

 

random photo #101 – finally she saw — Sao Paulo, Vila Madalena!!

 

random photo #102 – crates — at Mercado Municipal de São Paulo.

 

random photo #103 – choices — in Baden-Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Germany.

 

random photo #104 – knock, knock — at Barcelona

 

random photo #105 – heights – near Interlaken.

 

If you are interested in seeing other Random Photos, click on the random tag on the left.